Ebola

Short post today just to express my opinion.

Africa is lost.  To save our civilization I feel we must stop ALL migration of EVERY animal, including humans, from leaving the continent today.  All commerce of every good that leaves the continent must be stopped at once.  We must completely cease all physical contact with the continent.  Digital communication and air drops of needed supplies can be safely arranged but are probably useless.

The weakest point of such a barricade is the Suez canal.  We can hope the Sahara desert will protect northern Africa but still I suggest concentrating at least one million men on the eastern side to repel EVERY moving thing.  NOTHING must leave the continent.  Next weakest point is Gibraltar, followed by the ninety or so mile gap between Tunis and Sicily.  A naval presence large enough to stop all waterborne traffic must be deployed.

We must act today to get troops and vessels in place.

I hope this record survives what I fear is our inability as a species to act with coordination, purpose and determination in a timely manner.  

The Last Night on the Water - Bequia to St. Vincent

Soon after we were securely anchored to the bottom of Admiralty Bay, Capt'n Chris went home to Trubador for several hours and then returned in time to show us some of the night life available ashore in Bequia.  

My elbow was not working as well as my shipmates so they both had managed to down one more Rum Ti than I while the Capt'n was away.  Naturally the task of driving the dinghy ashore fell to me.  The extra Rum they carried in their bellies could have contributed to a wet tour of the town.  No way would it have led to a disaster; the water was only four to seven feet deep.  It would take serious effort to drown. 

Mostly, the challenge involved missing the rich boy toys scattered all around the place.  The boats can get ridiculously  huge.  I mean, really, does anyone need a hundred and twenty foot schooner or a hundred and eighty foot yacht to have fun in the Caribbean? 

You bet they do!  If I could afford it, I'd have one of these monsters so I could haul around a couple dozen buddies to help celebrate the new oil well turning out to be a gusher.  

Actually, once again I've overstated the danger.  The biggest challenge was pulling the rope to start the outboard engine on the dinghy without falling into the water.  There was no way we were going to run into other boats if we couldn't start the engine.  

Capt'n Chris, still grading our performance, sat in the bow and watched as I, being the most sober sailor in the harbor, held on to Joe while he pulled the rope.  He was successful the first time he pulled but managed to fall on top of Doc, who was in the lowest point he could find.  I quickly fought my way to the top of the pile and held the tiller hard over so we would go in circles until everything got calmed down.  After a short while all three of us were still dry and at our stations for the trip ashore.  

Capt'n Chris was taking notes much faster than his crew was getting underway.

Soon after the dinghy was brought under control and everyone had secured their seats, we turned towards land and brought the power up.  The controls work much like a motorcycle - the throttle, located at the end of the tiller, is turned much like the one on the handlebar of the bike.  Of course, there are no brakes..............

We managed to find a pier without incident and clambered onto it.  The first order of business was to lock the engine to both the boat and the pier using a quarter inch stainless steel cable, and then we locked the boat with a second cable.  Only then could we wander away and have a look around.

It seems the main business of the entire town involved the selling of Rum drinks to tourists.  A second source of income looked to be that of feeding drunken sailors.  There were a ton of places, some really unique, where we could drink and eat.  This one, The Whaleboner, had bar stools made from the whales vertebrae and used rib bones to trim the bar!  Originality counts for a lot here, and the natives are creative as the devil.

We wandered around, exploring the sights, until the sun started to go down.  Then we used the stone paved path that runs the entire length of the curving harbor to a restaurant the Capt'n recommended.  This picture of that path as the sun was setting is one of my favorites from the entire trip.  I have no words to describe the beauty of the islands and sea.  The best way, I guess, is to say I need to return to see it again.  

It was completely dark by the time we finished our meal, and time to return to the boat.  Yeah, that's a heck of a bunch of empty glasses on the table.  And, finding the right hull in an ocean of sailboats was the most difficult task we faced that day, even counting the squall that earlier blew out our jib.  I'm happy to report we made it back aboard completely dry and without help from any official Navy or Coast Guard personnel. 

Day 6: Union Island to Bequia

Our planning session the previous night did little to help us determine how long it would take for us to make the passage to Bequia.  The weather forecast winds from the northeast and our course was to the northeast!  A sailboat has the ability to head into the wind a bit, but there is a zone, usually 45 degrees to either side of directly into the wind, where a boat may not sail.  (At least not most boats - there are newer designs that CAN sail directly into the wind using hydrofoils.  But these new tech toys are used almost exclusively for racing and cost tens of millions of dollars,) We would not be able to determine how fast we could sail until the morning dawned and we could feel the wind in our faces.

NOT PART OF THIS STORY BUT WORTH A MENTION.   This is a photo of one of the America's cup racing sailboats that uses a sail (airfoil) when sailing directly downwind, a combination of airfoils and hydrofoils when sailing with the wind on the beam and that uses its' hydrofoils to sail INTO the wind.  On all points of sail, even running (which will confound most physicists), the boat is capable of speeds much in excess of the actual or apparent wind.  Speeds of 55 miles per hour are common in winds of a mere 20 knots!  More info on how they work: http://terrytao.wordpress.com/2009/03/23/sailing-into-the-wind-or-faster-than-the-wind/    This might get a little technical for some, but it is the most lay person oriented I could find.  This really is fascinating stuff; the first new idea in sailing for the last couple thousand years or more!

BACK TO THE STORY

Since we did not possess Larry Ellison's money and boat, we decided instead to get up early enough to have our teeth brushed and the engine fired by nine AM.  That would give us seven and a half hours to get the skipper home for dinner. For sure we could do that, even with the wind directly from our next anchorage.  The passage was just about 30 miles long.  With the wind on our nose we could veer 30 degrees off and motor back for a maximum of two hours east from where that course would take us.  Still lots of time to get The Skipper home in time to make his wife happy enough to welcome him. 

I just reread that last paragraph and feel the need to apologize.  For all you navigationally challenged folks, sorry.  Deal with it.  For all you navigationally adepts - hang in there; I know I've simplified things.  One hour @ 6 Kt and 10 degrees off course will  put a guy one nautical mile off course.  If he can motor back at 51/2 knots without straining the engine then he can get back in ...............hell with it.   You figure it out.  Doc says it'll all be OK.

We, being among the navigationally challenged, did just that.  Said the hell with it.  We figured things would work if we got up at 8:00, did what we did every morning, and readied the boat to head into the wind to raise the sail around nine.   

A friend has asked that I explain "heading into the wind" to raise the main.  About all I can say is the main sail produces most of the power needed to drive the boat.  If it is at any angle at all to the wind, it is producing power.  However, if it is in line with the wind as it freely flows over the boat, it will just flap about and make a bunch of noise.  While it is in this condition, one guy, with the help of a winch, can raise it.  This is hard to explain if you've never raised a sail, but believe me, a sail that is producing power is not a thing to be taken lightly.

I've been blown overboard by grabbing a parted jib sheet (broken rope attached to a corner of the sail closest to the front of the boat) and the only reason I can relate this tale is I was strong enough to hang on till the breeze blew me above the deck, where I let go.  A Dacron sail and a fresh breeze are not things with which one can trifle.  They will kill you and take no notice.  It happens.  Heading into the wind, while the sail is not producing power, is the only time a mainsail can safely be raised or lowered, and it's best to raise or unfurl a jib on a broad reach, the wind at your back, where that sail is in the windless lull created by the main.  At that time it is producing very little power and is safe to handle.


 It was hard to leave our beautiful and safe anchorage on the lee side of Union Island, at Chatham Bay.   Last night's view from a bar stool of the rock falling to the sea at the south entrance to Chatham Bay was just as fair seen from the boat this morning.  But,  it was almost 9:00, and that was the time we had determined we must be on our way.   Joe turned the key to fire the engine and checked to make sure cooling water from the exhaust was burbling from the aft port side of the boat.  With the engine running and it's alternator providing enough voltage to run the freezer and refrigerator, I turned them on.  Ice is expensive in this part of the world and every opportunity to cool these appliances must be taken.  Most charter companies want the engine to run for an hour in the morning and an hour in the evening.  This allows the batteries to be kept in a charged condition, helps keep perishable foodstuffs from, well, perishing, and insures a Captain who is by nature frugal (a cheapskate) will motor to and from his anchorage.

We had become a well coordinated crew by this point and as I was turning on the appliances, Doc was hooking up the halyard to the head of the mailsail, stowing the lazyjacks and undoing the sail ties and cover that had protected the main from harm overnight.  Both of us finished at about the same time, me below decks, Doc above, and then both of us went forward to raise the anchor.  Doc opened the chain locker and prepared to engage the electric winch.

The winch uses a one and a half horse motor.  The boat has a fifty horsepower engine.  Of course it's better to use the boats engine to motor toward the embedded anchor than it is to use the winch to pull the boat to it.  During this particular weighing of the anchor it was my job to tell Joe when and where to drive the boat to the anchor using hand signals, and it was Doc's job to release and stow the snubber and to make sure the chain was taken in and safely flaked in the locker.  Joe's job was to drive the boat.  All of us were fully capable of performing each task required to get the boat underway, and we took turns at each station.  Capt'n Chris had done his job; we were an able crew.

After the anchor had been secured to the deck, we motored seaward close by the northern headland of the Bay.  When there was enough open seaway, we turned back into the wind and raised our main.  Turning back, we unfurled the jib and were on our way.  Not bad - we had the anchor on deck at 9:05 and both sails were producing power by 9:30.  We were a little behind our schedule but it was no big deal.  I've saved the good news of the morning for the last - overnight the wind had shifted and was blowing a little more from the east.  If it held its current direction, we could make the passage close hauled on a single tack!  Maybe it would be possible to have the Captain home for some afternoon delight before dinner!  He had spent a week with us and the week before with a different boatload of goof offs.  I'm sure it was time for some home time.

We ran the boat wing and wing, the main to port and the jib to starboard til we gained the point.  As we turned, the main was brought in and the jib was set to port.  Now close hauled, our course was determined more by the knot meter than the compass.  That instrument let us know even more quickly than the luffing sails when we were steering too close to the wind.  A difference of five or seven degrees would almost instantly take two knots off our speed.  More than that would start the sails flapping (a loss of power) and we'd lose way altogether.  It was great fun to see just how close we could run and maintain 5 1/2 on the knot meter without dropping to 4 and a half.  Of course Joe was the best, next came Doc, and I was the least proficient.  Seems I was more in tune with my surroundings than the instrument.  I was enjoying the sea.

To me, close hauled is the best point of sail.  The boat heels over (tilts), the bow pounds into the waves (lots of spray in six foot seas) and God is beside me.  The lines are straining; you can feel them working.  The sails are full and tight.  When not at the wheel or otherwise engaged in handling the boat, I most enjoy sitting on the lee side as the boat heels, where I am closest to the water as it rushes by.  I'll let my hand drift into the water and feel its force.  Then I'll turn to the Lord, who is beside me, and thank Him for the ride. 

Capt'n Chris emerged from the cabin just in time to remind us we were supposed to be keeping track of our position.  "Where the hell are we," he said.  We looked at each other, then looked around at the other each others and finally figured out we had no clue.  "Uh, on the way to Admiralty Bay??" I offered.

"Where on the way." he asked.  Doc said "Just a sec." and scrambled into the cabin to retrieve a compass and chart.   He took a couple of bearings, noted the time and location, marked the chart with a circle indicating a fix, and handed it to the Captain.  "We're right here."  It was enough to remind us that part of our test depended on being able to fix our position every hour.  From then on we were careful to do so.  Later, we discovered the Captain had a secret GPS device and could pinpoint our position to within five feet.  He checked each position we marked on the chart by taking line of sight bearings, one after the other, with his GPS.  I guess all of us were close enough............

About half way through the passage I noticed a squall to the east, the direction the wind was blowing, and mentioned it to the other guys.  No one seemed to be overly concerned so I let it pass with no further comment.  After all, Doc had the helm and with Chris demoted to a mere passenger today, that made him Captain.  Half an hour later I was wishing I had been a little more vociferous.  I knew better than to just let it ride.  Forgetting that I was the only one of our crew (other than Chris, who was only a passenger today) who had had open ocean sailing experience, I put my faith in the judgement of sailors who had not experienced a squall.  It was easy to do, I had come to trust their ability over the last week.

When the squall hit us, we were flying the main at the first reef point, which was well.  Our jib, however, was all the way out.  We should have reefed it at the first sighting of the squall but did not.  Remembering previous squalls, I was fearful the boat would be damaged.  "Head up!," I shouted to Doc.  "Head up!''  He didn't do it and we really needed to pull some power out of that jib. "OK, then, bear away," I yelled.  He held course.  Capt'n Chris, hearing the commotion on deck, climbed the companionway and started screaming "We're gonna die!  We're all gonna die."

It was enough to clam us down.  I shut up, Doc continued on course and Joe hung on.  The squall passed and the only damage done was a two foot tear in the jib.  The sheets had held, which was my main concern.  Oh well, the jib needed some work anyway, and the charter company, who also conveniently owned a sail making shop,  didn't send anyone a bill.  Got lucky is all I can say about that.

Several hours later, as we approached Admiralty Bay, our path was lighted by a rainbow shining directly above our anchorage.  It was a little before 2:30 as we rounded the southwesterly point of the island of Bequia.  We debated sailing into the wind for a hour or so before furling the jib and motor sailing into the Bay but since it was my turn at the wheel I elected to do the easy thing.  We furled the jib and fired the engine.

An hour later we were in sheltered water and dropped our anchor.  Capt'n Chris hopped into the dinghy and headed to his home on the water and his bride, right on time.  After a while, he returned. Here he is, on his way back to Andato.

The day was not yet finished but all of us were ready to relax and clean up.  It had been a great week but all of us needed a couple of hours down time. 

Pictures from a Shipmate

I've been operating with a handicap while writing much of this series of posts.  My camera was out of juice for a day or so until I noticed one of the guys had brought a gizzmo which allowed his to be recharged using 12V DC current.  He graciously allowed all of us to use it.  Also, for several days, my camera went missing.  All told, there were three and a half days I did not take pictures.  Joe, the diver, came to my rescue today.  My mailbox was full of images.  I'll share a bunch with you folks.

This first picture was taken as Doc prepared to cast off the last of the lines securing us to the dock in Blue Lagoon, SVG, where the voyage began.  I'm watching and standing ready to catch the doubled line when he tosses it.  Andato's engine is fired, the transmission is in neutral; all in readiness to begin the adventure.  At right we're on our way!  Joe is ready to take over for Doc in case of a heart attack or Rapture.  For sure the good Doctor will be the one called by the Lord to be taken away; Joe, Capt'n Chris and I will be left behind.
                                                                               



Here are a couple that were taken at our first port of call, Admiralty Bay,  Bequia, SVG.  Of course the first was taken as the Sun rose over the mountains on the east side of the bay, from where the wind also arrived to fill our sails.  The lower one is typical of the spectacular setting Sun we witnessed every night.  Pictures can not capture the glorious sight but it is forever etched behind my retina.  I call it to mind by closing my eyes, clicking my heels three times and saying "There's no place like Bequia....."

Our senses were on overload for most of the entire trip.  If ever you have an opportunity to visit this part of our beautiful planet, DO IT!  If you are uncomfortable with the idea of sailing yourself, there are companies that will provide qualified Captains and crews to sail the boat.  All that is required of you is a pair of open eyes and the ability to get out of your favorite chair at home.  Seriously, it's worth whatever sacrifice you may have to make.  Give up grocery shopping for several months if that's what it takes.  There is a ton of canned food in lots of food banks across the country: do what it takes to see the beautiful world God gave us.

 Doc's not gonna let that wheel get away from him on our way to Tabago Cays.  Looks like he's braced for a hurricane but in reality he's just recovering from being goosed by Capt'n Chris, who for some unexplained reason is riding the transom.  Oh yeah,  Now I remember.  We had forgotten to haul the swim ladder up from last night's showers.  Dragging it in the water was knocking a half knot off our speed.  Knowing only a bunch of flakes would leave it down, the Capt'n decided to stow it himself.  I'm sure he thought it was the best way to prevent a man overboard situation.

My standard stance was not much more relaxed at the start of the trip.  I was much more used to a tiller as was, I believe, Doc.  Both of us became more comfortable as the days passed.  Joe, on the other hand, was a natural.  He could steer a steady course, eat a sandwich and take a leak all at the same time.  Some guys have it, others don't.

As we approached the Tabago Cays from the west, there was a narrow channel which we negotiated under power.  The lighter blue water to the left in this picture is a bit too shallow for our 6 foot deep keel.  The Capt'n steered us in: he trusted me to get us out in the morning.  It was the only time I had little faith in his judgement.  I was sure I'd put us on the beach.  I was  wrong.

We anchored at one of the most popular destinations in all of St. Vincent and The Grenadines, the marine sanctuary.  Boats flying the flags of twelve different nations were visible from our deck.  I never realized just how many people from around the world were actively involved with cruising the world's oceans.


We  next sailed southwest to avoid the open Atlantic and passed between Union Island and Palm Island, where we turned to a mostly southerly heading in order to gain Petit St. Vincent.  Like Palm Island, it is privately owned and is home to a pricy resort.  Being the least exclusive of the two, cruisers are allowed ashore to buy drinks at the palm-thatched roof bar a hundred yards or so from the dock.  The rest of the island is off limits to the less fortunate of humanity.

I have a mind to come back to this island one day with a Ninja Warrior kit.  I'll don black clothing, paint my face to match a moonless night and engage in a bit of unnoticed trespass.

After docking the boat and buying ice in Petit Martinique we turned to the north and started the trip back to Bequia and then the Blue Lagoon in St. Vincent, where we would finish the voyage.   The first stop on the way was Chatham Bay on the west side of Union Island.  Joe just had to be sure his finger covered part of the picture, the only mistake he made during the entire voyage to date.  (If you don't count not putting enough mayo on my sandwich)

Joe's contribution to this tale is now up to date, and I'll add his camera work to the posts that follow as the story unfolds.   Once again, sunset's are magnificent in the Caribbean, and Joe's camera captured another one, this time from Chatham Bay.

   

Day 5 Petit St. Vincent to Union Island

The day started well; all four of us managed to climb from our berths.  Then things went downhill.  The OJ that usually started everyone's day was noticed to be a bit warm.  All at once it hit us, our ice was gone!  It had completely melted and now was a pressing concern.  Doc Sam reminded us of last night's discussion.  It was most imperative we become illegal aliens.  Nothing else would do.

It's an easy sail from our anchorage at Petit St. Vincent to Petit Martinique, just a bit more than half a mile away.  There was no problem at all getting the boat and our bodies from where we were to where we could find plentiful, cheap ice.  And, once we tied up to the lower fueling dock in this picture, all we needed to do was walk to the yellowish building (behind the red roofs at the upper dock pictured) where some really nice people sold it.  The problem arose when we stepped ashore to buy it. 

Petit St. Vincent is an island located in the nation of St. Vincent and the Grenadines but Petit Martinique is an island located in the nation of Grenada!  Legally we were required to clear customs before stepping on Grenadian soil, but the closest port of entry was on the western side of the island of Carriacou, several hours away under sail. I can not say much more than somehow the ice found it's way into our cooler without incriminating at least one in our party, so that's all I'm gonna say!

There was a stiff wind blowing from the northeast which allowed us to practice docking the boat for several hours so that's what we did.  First Joe, then Doc and, finally, I docked it.  We were under power and Capt'n Chris took the opportunity to test our skill.  He asked us to practice backing the boat away while the wind was trying to push it onto the dock.   Boats tend not to back well; the turning prop "walks" the stern towards the direction the prop turns.  Our prop walked the stern away from the dock, which pushed the bow into it.  This also turned the boat so it's port side was presented to the wind, which tried to blow the bow completely around.

Finally, we guessed what the Capt'n was doing.  He had given us an impossible task and we had to come up with a better way.  We rigged a spring line which we used to help push the bow away while slowly motoring forward.  HA!  Another challenge met and mastered!  We were getting pretty confident with our abilities by this time.  One other lesson I took from these docking maneuvers was just how heavy the boat was.  I've never seen fenders flattened the way that boat could squeeze them.  My 26 footer could easily be pushed off a pier by just shoving off with my foot.  Not only was it impossible to do in this boat with waves and a wind blowing it in, it was dangerous.  If I were to slip while trying to shove off and get my leg between the boat and the pier, the leg would be lost.

The day had been a productive one, we'd sailed from one country to another, maneuvered the boat in close quarters for a couple of hours AND replenished our supply of ice.   It was getting late in the afternoon and our next anchorage was calling.  We motored out, headed up and raised the main.  The jib soon followed and we headed northwest to Union Island, our trusty dinghy following behind. 

The sail was made on a single tack,, the 19 Kt wind blowing directly over our starboard beam.   It took a bit more than an hour to make the seven mile passage to just beyond the southwest horn of Union Island.  There we furled the jib, dropped the main and motored northeast directly into the wind and into Chatham Bay.

  I made this picture larger so the many cafes and bars located along the beach could be more easily seen.    The amount of noise at night was amazing.  Every one of the joints had it's very own stereo system and all of them thought the volume of their business varied as the volume of the music did.  Nightmare!  But, in all fairness, I have to say it all shut down at 10:00PM.  We anchored and used the dinghy to go ashore to spend some time on the beach and have a couple of beers and dinner.  It was nice to get off the boat for a while and have someone else cook the meal.  

Here's a picture of the crew sitting down to dinner at the quietest place on the beach.  From the left there's Doc, Capt'n Chris and Joe.  I'm holding the camera and our boat is the first one to the left of the whitish column.   I can't remember much about the meal except it was spicy and there was lots of it!  We had a great time ashore, probably the best evening of the trip. 

We motored back to the boat and the Capt'n told us to get some sleep.  Tomorrow was the big day.  The practical portion of our Bareboat exam was for us to get him on board his boat, anchored in Admirality Bay, Bequia, by 4:30.  We were to wake ourselves in the morning, ready the boat in time to get him there, plot our courses, take hourly bearings and locate us on a chart as we sailed, anchor, start the dinghy and put him alongside his floating home before his wife's homecoming dinner for him got cold.  All of this without any help or advise.  Doc wanted to know if we were expected to kiss his wife for him - after all, we should get some sort of remuneration for all the work, and got flailed with the cat-o-nine-tails for an answer.

The Capt'n went to his cabin for some rest and the three of us started working the chart with dividers and parallel rulers.  BRING IT ON!

Day 4 - One more time. (I WILL get this right) Tobago Cays to Petit St. Vincent

One of the best parts of being an old fart is the ability to claim senility.  That ability, sprinkled often in my later years, has saved me time and again from many things including speeding tickets and public embarrassment.  Once again I claim it as an excuse.  I'm senile.  There.  I said it.

One of my accomplices wrote the other day and told me we really didn't spend the night at Palm Island; all we did was eat lunch as we sailed by the place.  Further, he reminded me I was fortunate not to have tossed my dentures overboard along with that lunch because of the previous night's overly large portion of Rum Ti's.  Thank the Good Lord someone can remember what really happened to this particular boatload of drunks - I'd hate to have the voyage unchronicled in the record of mankind.  I stand corrected, but unashamed.  Sue me.

Most of the last post is a true account of events so long as you don't count spending the night at Palm Island.  And the boat boys.  And the hollering directly off shore from the richey-rich guys.  So, we'll start today's adventure with me tossing my lunch.

"Sorry, guys, but I have to put my teeth in my pocket.  Dang near lost them overboard just now," I said after emptying the contents of my stomach into the aqua-colored ocean.  "You lucky drunks get to see me the same way my woman does in the morning."  Of course the blame for this sudden loss of calories is not my fault; it matters little that I had too much to drink last night.  Lee didn't use enough mayo on the sandwich and it went down a little funny.  It's his fault.


We continued south for another four miles, passing Mopion Island, where the famous umbrella sits all
alone on the beach, and turned to the east and our anchorage at Petite St. Vincent.

Please take the time to look at this link if you are unfamiliar with the engagement umbrella, it's beautiful.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g147380-d564173-r193656468-Mopion-St_Vincent_St_Vincent_and_the_Grenadines.html

  Our anchor was dropped just two hundred feet from the boat dock at the resort located on the island, we secured the mailsail and rested.   Capt'n Chris had again showed his invaluable experience.  Several other boats arrived later and were told to move.  Seems the resort's supplies are restocked on Wednesday nights and boats that had anchored closer to the dock than we had were told to move.  Believe me, that's not a lot of fun.

Once the boat is secured to the bottom for the night, glasses are filled.  It's a magic something that happens all by itself in these islands, and magic in any form is not to be discounted.  Weighing anchor and moving is sure to bring disaster in one or another form if instead of downing the newly filled glass, you do not offer it to Neptune.

We were soon approached by the local boat boys, (this is where we did in fact meet Mr. Fantastic from the first Day 4 post)  and learned the price of ice delivered to the boat.  Our supply was sufficient for the evening and we declined his offer.

Two hours later, we recognized the error of our ways and hatched a plan whereby we would become illegal aliens in the morning!  Dang!  I can't wait!  I've often considered just what it would take to make one leave his lawful residence and cross international borders without permission.  Now I know it's all a matter of cheap ice.

Rum Ti Recipe
one part sour, two parts sweet.
three parts strong, four parts weak.
five drops bitters, add some spice.
it's much better when cooled with ice.
 












  

Day 4: Tobago Cays to Palm Island

Today's voyage was to be a short one, about seven miles or so.  And, we would motor out of and into our anchorages so there would be only 90 minutes or less under sail.  Bummer.  However, Capt'n Chris had plans to keep our day full.  Right after breakfast and clean up the boat detail, he sat us down and handed out the test questions for our ASA103 exam.

Ugh.  I mentioned to him the fine print in the school contract where it stated only some would pass the 103 exam.  "Isn't it a bit soon for that test?," I asked.  "Quit your bitchin!," was his reply.  "All three of you are ready for it and we still have a few days to get the 104 stuff out of the way after you guys ace this one."

Cool!  It appears the warning "not to expect to come away from this week at sea with a Bareboat Certificate" did not apply to our boatload of goof offs.  Capt'n Chris sounded positive we would wobble off the boat with a piece of paper that would enable us to rent quarter to half million dollar yachts from almost anywhere in the world!  So what if the insurance cost 30 bucks a day extra.  Sure enough, the Capt'n collected the answer sheets, scored them, and told us we had all passed!  Two certificates in hand, we were ready for anything the wind could blow our way!

Before hauling in the anchor this time, we consulted the charts to figure out where we were going.  Well, actually, Doctor Sam, being the most intelligent of the three of us, reminded Lee and I of yesterday's fiasco.

Palm Island was only seven miles away and we should have been able to see it.  But one of the Tobago Cays islands was between our anchorage and our destination.  We'd have to plot a course west to sail into the open ocean. westsouthwest to pass between Union Island and Palm Island, and then turn east to our anchorage, which was located on the south side of the island.

The pictures of Palm Island are ones I dragged from the internet - I feared my phone was somewhere at the bottom of the ocean at this point of the journey but luckily it was just at the bottom of the boat.  It was located as I was checking the floor of my cabin for my cleanest used underwear a little later during the sail.

Again, it was an easy sail with 18 Kt. winds from the NE.  First at our backs, then off our beam and as we assumed our easterly course, we dropped the jib, fired up the engine and motor sailed into the wind until we reached our anchorage for the night.  Those east to northeast winds are almost certain to blow  every day in this part of the world.  It makes for fantastic sailing in the Caribbean and is a constant delight.

It was early and Mr. Fantastic, in his bright red motor launch, zoomed alongside to see if there was anything at all we needed from ashore.  You'll find these boat boys in every port with any sort of shore facilities, everywhere in this area.  The boats are all brightly colored, all of them have catchy names for themselves, and they even offer freshly caught shellfish and early morning delivery of newly baked bread!  They make their living checking with the cruisers in the boats as they arrive, buying and then delivering whatever the yachties need.  Of course there is a steep markup involved, but everyone knows about it.  The songs some of them sing advertising their specialties are fun to listen to.  I found all of them to be reasonable, low key salesmen; much easier to deal with than stateside panhandlers.

Palm Island is a destination resort for people with deep pockets and allows boaters to come ashore only to buy drinks from a dockside bar.  No way can the unwashed (literally)  masses mingle with their wealthy clients.   We kept our distance, yelled and cavorted in the water, used the last of our ice in freshly cleaned glasses filled to the brim with product from a distillery founded in 1703, snorkeled, bathed and went to our berths in a great mood. 

Day 3: Bequia to The Tobago Cays

Let's see.  When I woke this morning I'm sorta thinking it's Tuesday.  Humm.  Partied Sunday night, worked our butts off all day yesterday (Monday???), and then had one rum ti and crashed.  Yeah.  It's Tuesday and I'm real happy I can remember that much this morning.  Also, the one measly drink of alcohol has completely worn off, my back is killing me and I need to take a pill.  

Fifteen minutes after the pill went to work, I found my back no longer bothered me - better living through modern chemistry, baby - but my tummy is telling me I need to eat something.   I'm sure there was no meal last night; we were all just too tired to bother.  Having slept where I lay down in the cockpit the night before, I went below, fired up the stove and scrambled some eggs.  Toast completed the breakfast, and that was made the old fashioned way.  I just tossed a couple of slices of bread on the burner for a second or so.  

Doped up sailors make a lot of racket cooking breakfast while on a slowly rolling boat so by the time I finished cooking, everyone else was stirring.  To get out of their way, I went back topside and ate.  The wind was calm and now that most of my morning needs had been met, I slowly became aware it was time to take a bath.  Actually, I dang near tossed my breakfast when the stench of my unwashed-for-days body finally registered on my brain.  I tied a line around my midsection, grabbed a bar of soap and a towel, undressed and jumped in the water. 

The water in the Caribbean is the most beautiful shade of blue/green you can possibly imagine.  If you have never seen it, you must before you leave this planet.  It is a wonder of the world.  Pictures can not convey the sight of the colors as the wind blows the waves and the hues change.

Not only is the water beautiful, it is also warm.  The average temperature is 80 degrees, about the same as most heated pools, and there was only a vague sensation of a change in temperature when I splashed in.  I'd take a deep breath and start rubbing my body with the bar of soap until my feet touched the bottom.  Then I'd shove off the bottom, surface, take another breath and repeat.  Before long everything had been rubbed and I climbed back on the transom.  There was a fresh water shower head located there and I completed my bath by washing off the salt water before toweling dry.  

I wrapped the towel around myself, closed my eyes so the guys still eating breakfast wouldn't have to look at my well rounded, mostly naked body during the middle of their breakfast, went into my cabin and dressed.  A quick look at the onboard clock showed it was 7:20 AM.

What???   When I'm at my house, in my own bed, I never even RISE til around 10 or 11 AM.  What's up with this?  Here's it only 7:30 and I've already taken pain meds, eaten, bathed and dressed.  All this sailing stuff can't be good for me.  Maybe I should get off the boat and go home to get some sleep.  Never mind, the guys just finished their breakfasts and clamored up the companionway.  Their noses must be completely plugged up because even though I can smell them, they're happy as clams to get underway.  Thank God the wind is forecast to freshen and blow out of the NE at 16 Kts.  Joe fires the engine, Sam and I raise the anchor and we motor out of the harbor.  

Today we're actually going to sail away!  The destination is the Tobago Cays and the Marine Sanctuary located there.  We round the most western point of Bequia and turn south.  Joe, the diver onboard, had been there before and knows we need to go past Canouan and pass to the east of  Mayreau before turning to the east and raising the Tobago Cays.  We asked Capt'n Chris just what our southerly heading should be to accomplish this.  We were astonished when he told us, "Hell if I know.  I forget.  If ya wouldn'tda been in such a hurry to leave, we coulda figerder out while we were anchored.  Here's a chart."

Wow.  The only pieces of paper I'd ever seen aboard my 26 footer years ago, other than trash that needed to be carried ashore to be dumped, was one that I used to list stuff that broke while underway and needed to be fixed later.  And, the only pencil on board was used to write down all the busted crap on that piece of paper.

In those days I'd often sail northwest for five or six days, turn around and sail mostly east till I saw some land.  If there was a bronze/gold colored bridge in view, I needed to sail south to get home.  If there were no lights to speak of at night, I still needed to sail south.  If I saw oil wells, I was close to Santa Barbara and home.  If there were lights all along the shore, I needed to sail north to get back.  It was easy to find my berth without any of the chart crap he had tossed at us.

Now, Capt'n Chris expected us to use the paper he handed us to find our way?  Christ.  Might as well ask a dolphin to find a bird's nest.

Luckily, I have been a pilot for the last fifty years and Joe also held his pilots license with an instructors endorsement.  Both of us were good at reading aeronautical charts and quickly determined a nautical chart has much in common with those we could read.  Between the two of us we were able to determine a heading that would put us in the general vicinity of our destination.  Sam, an MD, was smart enough to locate a  guide in the ship's library that included profiles of the various islands as seen from the sea. 

Among the three of us we had determined what direction to head, how to identify islands as we approached them, and were certain we could find our destination.  Who needs Capt'n Chris?  There was some discussion about tossing him overboard but we were not sure he'd sink.  None of us wanted a witness to the crime, so we let him remain on board.  

 

Four hours after turning onto our southerly heading we passed Canouan.  Two hours after that, Mayreau was on our starboard beam and we turned east.  Thank the Lord we had decided to keep Capt'n Chris; he knew where the best anchorage was when we gained the Tobago Cays.  He put us no more than two hundred yards from the windward side of the best place to view the growing sea turtle population and into waters where we needed only a bow anchor to hold us on station.  As you can see, the Marine Sanctuary at Tobago Cays is a very popular and crowded destination.  The diving is fantastic.

Joe and Sam both grabbed snorkels and fins, Capt'n Chris and I grabbed and filled glasses, and we all watched for sea turtles.  An hour and a half later Sam and Joe climbed back aboard without even one glimpse of a turtle.  Not five minutes later Capt'n Chris yelled "There e goes!"  Joe saw him, jumped in without his equipment and the underwater chase was on.  The turtle won.

For those of you who happen to be nautical types, the sail out of Admiralty Bay was made on a broad reach with the main reefed at the first point in 16 Kt winds.  The southerly run was made on a single tack on a beam reach and we were close hauled when we turned east after gaining Mayreau.  The sails were lowered and we motored in the close quarters experienced while in the Cays.

Day Two: Bequia to Bequia

I guess the song title describing this post would be "Will It Go Round In Circles"  Listen and decide if the 5th Beatle, Billy Preston, knows how to ask the question!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cuFOkAL8ihM

My answer to him is "Hell Yes"

Capt. Chris (real, legendary, Capt. of the Caribbean) had learned from his first trip across the waters with Sam, Joe (names changed to protect the innocent), and your fearless (really) author, that his crew mates were lowly, despicable cretins worthy of absolutely no respect in any endeavor requiring more than the raising of a glass filled with an alcoholic beverage to our mouths.  He needed to work us into a crew: one that could handle the most daunting and awful condition with which the sea was capable of challenging us.  In other words, he wanted us to bring the inner sailors each of us had already proved were inside, to the outside where he could hone our skills.

Yeah, Joe had sailed for years, owned a small boat and wanted to step up to a larger one, Sam had sailed with buddies for ages and wanted to be sure of his large boat skills before buying one, and I - the true hero in this tale - just wanted to learn if my aged, fat and decrepit body was still physically able to handle a boat as well as the Adonis like one I had 35 years ago could.  We all knew how to sail, Chris was able to determine that the first day, but there was much he could teach us.  First though, he needed to turn us into a well functioning crew.  Drawing from his enormous experience, he determined the best way to mold us into a unit was to make us lose weight. To accomplish this, he made us work our butts off this time.

Still somewhat queasy from the previous night celebrating the fact we did not drown each other the first day out, I fired up the engine and, following the hand signals Sam was sending, slowly motored toward the anchor as Joe stepped on the electric switch that hauled in the anchor chain.  We managed to leave Admiralty Bay without running aground and without swapping paint with another vessel.  WOW.

I was at the helm as we headed toward the open ocean to raise the mainsail when Chris tossed the horseshoe life preserver into the ocean and yelled "Man overboard!"  This was a no brainer.  With the boat underway with power, I simply reversed course, slowed and put the transmission in neutral as we approached the horseshoe.  The learning experience came when Joe grabbed the gaff (basically a sharp, pointed hook), instead of the man overboard pole, to retrieve the float.

Capt'n Chris pointed out his mistake and Joe grabbed the right tool instead.  After retrieving the dang thing, we noticed the rubber doohicky that went on the sharp end of the gaff to protected everyone from slicing off their appendages - arms, legs, ya know - was missing.  It had fallen overboard.  We motored in circles until it was spotted and without thinking, Joe, since he was the one who managed to lose it, simply jumped in to retrieve it.

Now, we had a real man overboard situation.  Holy Crap.  This time was for real.

Joe is a strong swimmer.  He is a certified master diver and is used to jumping off smaller boats and easily climbing back aboard.  A larger boat, however, presents a much larger cross-section for the wind to work against.  In a 19 Kt wind, as was the case during this time, a boat with the sails furled can easily be blown twelve or more feet per minute away from a swimmer.  There is no way in God's universe a swimmer can regain his cabin and bunk.  Without immediate action from crew on the boat, the swimmer will be lost.  I put the transmission in neutral to keep the boat on station.

Joe was swimming his heart out, but with the rubber thingy in his hand he was making no progress.  He was falling further and further behind the wind blown boat.  I put the transmission in reverse with the throttle set in idle.  Now, the boat held station and Joe made some progress.  But, the prop was spinning.  That presented a real danger to his arms and legs.  Capt'n Chris tossed him a line, I put the transmission in neutral and Joe climbed aboard.  The rubber whatsit was put on the sharp end of the hook and all was well.

Dang!  Our first real disaster at sea and nobody was killed.  Guess this little voyage will not make any headlines.  That's too bad, I really hunger to be a hero.

Finally, Capt'n Chris allowed us to motor out of the harbor, raise the main and jib, and sail into the open ocean.  Then, he wore us down.  

No sooner than we had established a comfortable course, he commanded a new one which required us to tack the boat.  "Prepare to come about", the helmsman would shout, and the crew would respond "Ready low"......"Ready high"  "Helm's alee" .......and we'd come about.

After two hours of this torture, Capt'n Chris showed us another road to hell.  The Jibe.

Now, not only did we have to deal with the jib sheets, there was also the main with which to contend.  "Prepare to Jibe," the helmsman called.  And the crew responded: "Ready high, Ready low, Ready main."  Then the command "Jibe Ho"  Sure enough, the boat did what the helmsman wanted it to do and we sailed on.

For more than six hours we practiced these maneuvers and by the end of that time we were an able crew.  We were ready to follow the orders of the helmsman, and were capable of keeping the boat out of harm's way.

After dropping the sails and firing up the engine, we were able to turn on the fridge, motor back to port, drop the anchor, and most importantly, drink a well deserved portion of Mount Joy rum.  Maybe we ate something, but as tired as my body was, all I remember was telling the laundry boat "I don't give a damn if my underwear is dirty."

  

Day One: St. Vincent to Bequia

The tropical birds were supposed to be loud enough to wake me, but it was a good thing I set the alarm clock.  After a couple of Rum Ti's (just to get into the spirit of the trip) the previous evening, I needed the extra jarring the clock provided to drag my hung over body out of the sack.  Holy headache - I'm s'posed to go sailing today?  I took a couple of pills, brushed my teeth and headed out in search of breakfast.

There were several open tables so I naturally chose the closest one.  Still sleeping, I tried to move the chair far enough from under the table I could sit in it, but needed the help of a crew cut, bearded guy about half my age, to unstick it from the deck.  He introduced himself, saying the owner had pointed me out as one of his crew.  Turns out he was Captain Chris and he was the guy who would determine whither or not I could still manage a boat after an absence of more than 36 years.   Great.  What a terrific first impression I must have made.

After assuring him I usually had a better morning, we ordered and started to get to know one another.  While we were eating, we were informed the flight carrying the other two members of the crew had been delayed and they were not expected for another couple of hours.  No biggie, Chris and I just finished eating and then he presented me with the ASA 101 exam.  It took another cup of coffee while I checked answers I hoped were correct.

Nothing wrong with my memory, I was easily able to recall the bow was at the front and the stern was in back.  100%, he said.  Wow.  I just got my ASA101 certificate, hung over and all!  When one of the local stevedores heard the news, he helped me celebrate by carrying my sea bag to the boat.  The five dollar tip he received helped a bit, I think.   It worked for both of us; he carried the bag and I wrung the neck of what was left in the bottle that so brutally mistreated me the night before as I carried it to the boat.

No, that's not the boat we were to use on this voyage, it's just one I kinda want for my birthday and thought I needed to toss it in here somewhere.  Our boat was a 44 foot Dufor Gib'Sea - the one on the left of the picture below - and my bag was placed with care in the stern cockpit.

 
  The bottle I carried was casually tossed in on top of it. 

Since it was my habit to sleep on deck during warm nights some three decades earlier, I selected one of the aft bunks to be closer to the companionway in case of rain at night.  After stowing my gear, Chris gave me a tour of the boat and it's systems.  There were some unfamiliar items; equipment has changed a bit in the last thirty some odd years, but mostly I was familiar with it.  We settled in to wait for the rest of the crew and swapped lies. 

After several more hours, our other crew mates arrived and climbed on board.  Chris fired up the engine, we cast off the stern lines and were off!  Not yet sailing, but at long last headed to sea.  We had a 19 Kt wind at our back as we motored away from the dock so we made a quick escape to open waters.  Fifteen minutes or so later we turned and headed into the wind to raise the mainsail.

Now, I must remind you readers of my claim to be familiar with most of the boats systems.  Remember that?  Well, one of the items on this boat that I did not have on the boat I called home for years was a lazyjack system to help manage the sails.  My 26 footer from way back when didn't need them.  The main on a boat that size is much easier to handle.  So..............of course I clipped the halyard to the head of the sail before we left the dock without checking to see if it was clear of the lazywhatevers.  Chris sort of chuckled while Joe tried his best to jump the main.  Luckily, Sam had a decent view of what was happening and told him to stop.  About this time I noticed we were almost back to the dock so I turned back downwind and headed away from the rocks - one more time.

A half gallon of diesel later we tried again.  While on downwind Sam squared away the main halyard, Joe got back into position to jump, and I managed to get rid of my red face.  I reversed course so the boat was headed into the wind, we FINALLY raised the mainsail, and turned back to sea.  I brought the boat to a broad reach, we managed to get the jib up with no problem, and set our course for the island of Bequia, where we would spend our first night on the hook. 

The voyage was made on a broad reach through 5 foot seas with a 19 Kt wind.  We had reefed the main at the first point before raising it and that proved prudent.  It was a blast being on the water again and we all took a turn at the helm for the two hour transit. Upon gaining Bequia, we reeled in the jib, fired up the motor and motorsailed into Admiralty Bay.  We throttled back, dropped the main, and Chris took the helm as Joe and Sam loosed the anchor.  Using the time honored and proven theory that all things will eventually wind up at the bottom of the boat, I managed to find the bottle of rum.  Just it time, it turned out,  cause we all needed a drink to celebrate!

Sam and Joe had to take their 101 exam while Chris and I proved ourselves heros to each other over the first couple of glasses.  We found the propane solenoid, located a pot and filled it with something or other we agreed to eat after it was warm.  Ah, life on a boat.  It's all I remembered!

Link to images of a 44 foot Gib'Sea

https://www.google.com/search?site=&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1038&bih=660&q=44+foot+Gib%27Sea&oq=44+foot+Gib%27Sea&gs_l=img.12...9348.15365.0.17930.15.8.0.7.7.0.190.972.4j4.8.0....0...1ac.1.45.img..6.9.973.NRU6xz_VvCM

 

Kingstown

St. Vincent and the Grenadines

The flight to Kingstown on LIAT Airlines lasted only 25 minutes or so and because I was sitting on the starboard side of the plane all l was able to see was water the entire trip.   Oh well, that's just my luck.  The Lord plays tricks like that on me all the time.  He knew I was going to be on the water for seven days and wanted to let me know what to expect.  Right.......

The charter company assured me there would be a driver to pick me up at the airport to take me to my hotel for the night so I was not surprised when he walked right up and asked if I was his passenger.  It was surprising that he walked up to me and not someone else.  I guess it was because my body was whiter than any of the other tan ones that got off the plane.  So much for fitting in.  The taxi ride to my room, promised as taking no more than 10 minutes, was actually made in less than seven minutes.  Johnnie, the driver, turned out to be a NASCAR wannabe with a death wish.  We sped around a winding one and a half lane road.  Instead of slowing and moving a little more to our side of the road when a car was coming in the opposite direction, Johnnie sounded his horn and sped up.  Later I learned that the guy with the loudest horn has the right of way.  Or something like that.  

Traffic lanes resemble those in England; oncoming traffic passes on the right, and I imagine all the cars with the right side dented and scratched, maybe 70 percent of all traffic, are the result of drivers being unable to determine who had the loudest horn.  If any of you readers are so inclined, there's a pile of money to be made here.  Just invent one or another devise that will measure the decibel level of competing horns and display that information on the dashboard.  I'm sure they'll sell like hot cakes. 

I'll never know how it happened (my eyes were closed much of the time) but we made it to the hotel without adding more dents to the car.  I thanked Johnnie and tipped him way too much.  I figure just getting there unharmed was worth the money.  The front desk was ready for me, and my heavy duffel bag was given to a skinny guy who weighed maybe forty pounds more than it did.  He managed it much more easily than I.  Wow.  I'm outta shape.  The view from the room was amazing; I could see the lagoon, the sailboats moored there and native trees.  Beautiful.

 After locating all my shaving gear, I showered, shaved and went to find some food.  The restaurant  was just as amazing, with a different view of the same scene.  And, to the side of the path leading there I had to pass several banana trees loaded with fruit that was almost ripe.  Too bad I hadn't waited for another week or two;  I could have grabbed a couple to eat on the boat.

That was to be the last night I would spend in a full sized bed and in air conditioned comfort for a while.  In the morning I would meet my shipmates and board a 44 foot Dufor Gib'Sea for a week.

Barbados

Miami to Barbados.   Now there's a phrase that has a pleasant ring to it, especially when it's coming from the intercom of an airliner during the welcome aboard spiel presented by a well groomed hostess.  

 I had boarded a plane the day before, in the subfreezing temperature of Redmond, that had taken me to air conditioned LA and then on to tropical Miami.  When offered the option of a 12 hour layover in Florida or a 20 hour one during the booking process, I naturally chose the longer one.  My body no longer handles time changes on the Easterly leg of a journey as it did during my younger days, and the idea of a full eight hours sleep, along with the thoughts of a leisurely dinner and breakfast during the voyage, was really appealing.  I found myself listening to the welcoming speech while well rested and eager to get on with it.  Of course the flight was delayed a bit.............

The wheels finally got long enough to touch the ground again around 10:30 PM Barbados time and looking around, I noticed the opportunity of a lifetime had presented itself to me.  The airport in Barbados borders the ocean and there is an amazing breeze that flows through the open air portion of the terminal.  Realizing I could enjoy the fantastic smell of that breeze and relive the simple pleasure of a carefree time when long ago, as a much younger man, I allowed the Good Lord to provide my bed where ever I grew tired enough to need sleep, I laid down on one of the many benches and slept soundly through the night.

It seems odd that such a simple act could turn back time so easily, but that act nullified lessons learned over many decades about such things as personal safety, the necessity of a comfortable mattress and the need to protect ones belongings from the lawless hordes.  Of course, it helped knowing the most valuable item in the bags resting under the bench while I slept was clean underwear.  And, yeah, my camera was small enough to fit in my shirt pocket.  Forty years peeled off my age that night and I slept through the process.  The vacation was off to a great start.

There was a time when the world was ruled by giants who learned to fly people from place to place in airplanes twice as fast as the speed of sound.  Of course those days are long gone and the world is now ruled  by kids who play video games while hanging out at the mall.  But, when the giants ruled, Barbados was at the center of  the planet.  Every Saturday, at 9:30 AM London time, British  Airways would hurl a Concorde down the English runway fast enough to land in Barbados, four time zones to the West, at 8:45 the same morning.  

Never did I ever imagine I would find myself in the cockpit of the fastest commercial airliner in history, but when I woke, there it was, less than 1000 paces from me: I started the day off by climbing on board and visiting that treasured space.   After several hours of peering into every place I could see, sitting in VERY comfortable seats that had previously been occupied only by the wealthiest among us, and of walking on every surface that would support my weight,  I returned to the airport in hopes of finding a duty free shop.  Barbados is famous for it's rum, and I wanted to drink me some!

The oldest rum distiller on the planet, Mount Gay, is located in Barbados and some of their rum is deemed the best the world can offer.  They offer several different types, all produced in the same distillery, and sorted by the amount of time the brew is allowed to age.   One of the blends is said to contain stuff that is 108 years old!  Personally, I believe a bottle or two of rum produced at that time was found somewhere in a back corner of a falling down building somewhere on the premises when a hung over employee was looking for a quiet place to recover.  Further, I think one or two drops of the liquid from this find has been added to batches of 100 gallons or more to make a blend that can be sold for at least $100 per liter!  Hey, I'd do it, wouldn't you?  As you can see, I was successful in my search and uncorked the first bottle that evening.

After roaming around the place a while longer, I boarded another airplane.  This one would take me to Kingstown, in the island nation of St. Vincent and the Grenadines, and to Blue Lagoon, where my sailboat was waiting.